What is DiamondFinish Clear?
DiamondFinish Clear is a single-component (1K) moisture-cured urethane clear coat that seals bare metal, wood, fiberglass, gelcoat, and cured paint with a water-clear, high-gloss film. DiamondFinish Clear cures using humidity in the air, so no hardener or activator is mixed in, and the finished film reaches 7H pencil hardness at seven days.
7H
Pencil Hardness at 7 Days
400 sq. ft.
Per Gallon at 2 Mils
DiamondFinish Clear is built on moisture-cured urethane chemistry, the same class of coating used on bridges and offshore structures. The resin pulls moisture out of the air to cross-link, which is why DiamondFinish Clear needs no catalyst, no pot-life timer, and no heat or UV lamps to reach a full cure.
At 62 percent volume solids, two coats build roughly 4 mils of dry film. That film stays permanently flexible, survives 160 inch-pounds of direct and indirect impact, and holds 1000 hours of QUV 313B accelerated weathering and 1000 hours of ASTM B117 salt spray without yellowing, chalking, cracking, or peeling.
Manufactured in Valparaiso, Indiana and shipped factory direct, usually the same business day. Satisfaction guaranteed!
Video: The Many Uses of DiamondFinish Clear
Cross-linked urethane chemistry is what carries the 7H hardness and 160 inch-pound impact rating.
DiamondFinish Clear bonds directly to bare ferrous and non-ferrous metal, wood, fiberglass, gelcoat, carbon fiber, and fully cured paint including automotive basecoats. DiamondFinish Clear needs no adhesion promoter or primer on any of these. Bare wood takes a first coat thinned 30 to 50 percent with KBS #1 Thinner to seal the grain before the full coats go on.
- Ferrous metals: Mild steel, carbon steel, stainless steel, cast iron, and wrought iron. Polish or sand to the finish you want, then clean with KBS Klean diluted 10 parts hot water to 1 part KBS Klean.
- Non-ferrous metals: Aluminum, brass, copper, chrome, and alloys. Use a weaker 25 to 1 KBS Klean dilution and a very soft pad, wipe rather than soak, and rinse immediately.
- Wood: Bare and previously finished wood, indoors and out. Remove failed coatings, sand smooth, and seal the grain with a coat thinned 30 to 50 percent. Full directions are in the wood section below.
- Fiberglass, gelcoat, and carbon fiber: Clean with 10 to 1 KBS Klean, scuff with 600 to 1200 grit, re-clean, and dry. This is the standard path for reviving oxidized boat gelcoat.
- Cured automotive basecoats: Apply the basecoat per its own directions and let it dry, normally about one hour, then clear coat. Use a UV stable basecoat if the part lives in the sun.
- Cured 1K and 2K paints and solid colors: Clean, scuff with 600 to 1200 grit, re-clean, and dry. Minimal prep, and the coating self-levels over brush and roller marks.
- Water-based acrylics and urethanes: Compatible once fully cured, which is how DiamondFinish Clear adds gloss and chemical resistance to water-based custom work.
- Concrete: Covered by its own separate directions page, linked in the resources section below.
Direct to bare metal, no primer and no adhesion promoter.
DiamondFinish Clear is a single-component moisture-cured urethane, so DiamondFinish Clear cures on humidity in the air rather than on a mixed hardener. That chemistry delivers 62 percent volume solids, 7H pencil hardness at seven days, 160 inch-pounds of impact resistance, and 1000 hours of QUV 313B exposure with no yellowing or chalking.
- No hardener, no pot life: Stir well and go. Nothing is activated, so unused material stays usable in the can when it is resealed and stored per the directions.
- High solids: 62 percent volume solids and 66 percent weight solids, so more of what leaves the brush stays on the part as film.
- Cures without heat or lamps: Full cure at ambient temperature between 50 and 82 degrees F. UV and bake lamps actually slow this coating down.
- Permanent UV stability: 1000 hours of QUV 313B. DiamondFinish Clear does not chalk, yellow, or fade in sunlight.
- Chemical resistance: The cured film resists most common shop chemicals and solvents, and is rated excellent against 10 percent sodium hydroxide. For a specific chemical or a constant-contact application, contact the KBS technical team before you coat.
- Graffiti resistant: The same chemical resistance means spray paint will not bite. Most tags wipe off with a solvent-soaked rag.
- Non-toxic once cured: Once fully cured, DiamondFinish Clear is 100 percent non-toxic. Observe every label warning and use full respiratory protection while the coating is still wet and curing.
- Self leveling: Brush and roller marks flow out. Brush an area once and move on rather than working it over repeatedly.
- Polishable: Cut, buff, and polish after 24 hours exactly as you would an automotive clear coat, for a deep mirror finish.
- Heat rated: 300 degrees F dry heat for 1 hour, which covers brake components, valve covers, and manifold work.
DiamondFinish Clear is used on automotive bodywork and engine parts, boat gelcoat and aluminum hulls, fishing lures and tackle, tumblers and coasters, wood furniture and signage, and outdoor metal art. The cured film resists most common shop chemicals and solvents, which is why DiamondFinish Clear also holds up on exterior tank and equipment surfaces.
- Automotive and Truck
- Custom refinish over cured basecoat, steel and plastic bumpers, aluminum fittings, tank exteriors, chassis hardware, cylinder heads, engine blocks, brake components, and inlet manifolds.
- Marine
- Reviving faded or oxidized fiberglass gelcoat on hulls, decks, and topsides, and clear coating aluminum john boats. Apply a minimum of three coats for anything consistently in the water.
- Wood and Furniture
- Bar tops, tabletops, signage, cutting boards, outdoor furniture, and turned work. The high-gloss film adds depth over stain and paint, and the chemical resistance stands up to spills.
- Tackle and Craft
- Fishing lures, crankbaits, and jigs, plus tumblers, coasters, and custom artwork. The film is hard enough to resist hook rash and flexible enough not to chip on a strike.
- Shop, Home, and Art
- Outdoor metal sculpture, fire pit tables, patina and bare-steel work where the raw look needs sealing, and graffiti protection on exposed surfaces.
- Industrial and Architectural
- Handrails, gates, equipment housings, and machinery where a hard, non-porous, chemical-resistant film is needed without the complexity of a catalyzed system.
Lure bodies can be dipped or brushed, and the film is fully waterproof once cured.
1000 hours of QUV 313B exposure is what keeps outdoor work from chalking.
Three thin coats minimum when clear rust protection is the goal.
Yes. DiamondFinish Clear seals bare and previously finished wood, indoors and out. Wood must be smooth, dry, and low in moisture content, with all failed coatings removed. The first coat is thinned 30 to 50 percent with KBS #1 Thinner to seal the grain, then sanded once the raised grain has cured.
- Step 1: Prepare the wood
- Remove every failed coating, sand the surface smooth, and remove all dust. The wood must be dry with a low moisture content before any coating goes on.
- Step 2: Seal the grain
- Thin DiamondFinish Clear 30 to 50 percent with KBS #1 Thinner and apply a single covering coat. Allow it to cure 24 hours.
- Step 3: Sand the raised grain
- The first coat raises the wood grain, so the surface will generally need sanding smooth again with a fine grade of sandpaper, 280 to 320 grit.
- Step 4: Build the finish
- Apply at least one additional full coat for general applications. Apply a minimum of three coats for marine or industrial use.
Coverage on wood: expect up to 50 percent less than the published figure on bare wood, rough, or sandblasted surfaces. Bare wood is porous, and the sealing coat is absorbed rather than left on the surface as film.
Pro Tip: never use a solvent wipe or a tack cloth to prep wood or any other surface for DiamondFinish Clear. Both leave a residue that causes surface tension and fisheyes in the wet film.
Shop KBS #1 Thinner
One gallon of DiamondFinish Clear covers about 400 square feet at 2 mils dry film thickness, which works out to roughly 200 square feet at the recommended two-coat, 4 mil build. A quart covers about 50 square feet in two coats. Expect up to 50 percent less on bare wood, rough, or sandblasted surfaces.
| Container Size | Coverage at 2 Coats |
|---|
| 4 oz | 6.25 sq. ft. |
| Pint (16 oz) | 25 sq. ft. |
| Quart (32 oz) | 50 sq. ft. |
| Gallon (128 oz) | 200 sq. ft. |
Recommended build: 4 mils total dry film thickness, two coats at 2 mils each, for general work. Apply a minimum of three coats for marine applications, industrial use, surfaces consistently exposed to water, and anywhere bare metal rust protection is the goal.
Pro Tip: material losses during mixing and application, especially when spraying, are real and should be figured into the order. Buy the next size up rather than stopping a job to wait on a shipment.
DiamondFinish Clear differs from a two-component (2K) clear coat in that DiamondFinish Clear cures on moisture from the air rather than on a mixed hardener, so there is no pot life to race and no activated material left over to throw away. A 2K clear coat cures faster and can be force dried with heat.
| | DiamondFinish Clear (1K) | Typical 2K Clear Coat |
|---|
| Hardener or activator | None. Cures on humidity in the air. | Required. Resin and hardener mixed before use. |
| Mixing ratio | None. Stir well and apply. | Must be measured. A ratio error affects the cure. |
| Pot life once opened | None. Reseal and store per directions. | Limited. Varies by product, commonly a few hours. |
| Leftover material | Stays usable in the can. | Activated material is discarded. |
| Direct to bare metal | Yes. No primer or adhesion promoter. | Varies. Most systems specify a primer or sealer. |
| Cure method | Ambient humidity. Bake and UV lamps slow the cure. | Chemical cure. Can usually be force dried with heat. |
A 2K clear coat is the better choice when a panel has to be sprayed, cured, and buffed inside a single day, or when the finish has to be matched into a specific automotive refinish system. DiamondFinish Clear reaches a full cure at a minimum of 7 days and cannot be forced along with heat or UV lamps.
KBS builds a 2K clear as well. KBS MAXX Clear is the two-component option and is also where to look for a flat finish, and DiamondFinish Clear Aerosol covers small jobs where breaking out a gun is not worth it.
DiamondFinish Clear is applied in three steps: clean with KBS Klean diluted 10 parts hot water to 1 part KBS Klean, scuff with 600 to 1200 grit and clean again, then brush, roll, or spray a minimum of two thin covering coats at 2 mils each. Apply between 50 and 82 degrees F and recoat within 2 to 4 hours.
Can DiamondFinish Clear Be Sprayed?
Yes. Thin 10 to 15 percent with KBS #1 Thinner or Xylene only, up to 30 percent maximum. HVLP runs 25 to 35 psi air and 25 to 35 psi fluid with a medium viscosity cap and a 1.0 to 1.6mm tip. Conventional spray runs 35 to 55 psi air and 15 to 20 psi fluid on the same cap and tip range. Airless needs 1500 psi minimum with a 0.09 to 0.11 inch tip.
Always wear an air supplied respirator or a NIOSH and MSHA approved organic vapor particulate respirator plus eye protection when spraying, and clean the gun with KBS #1 Thinner immediately after use.
Do You Have to Stir DiamondFinish Clear?
Yes, before every use. Stir gently and thoroughly, touching the bottom of the can repeatedly to lift any settled resin. Never shake the can, because shaking whips in air bubbles that show up in the finish. Dispense a working amount into a separate steel or glass container and reseal the original can immediately rather than painting out of the can.
Safety: always work in a well-ventilated area and wear protective gloves and safety glasses. When spraying, an air supplied respirator or a NIOSH and MSHA approved organic vapor particulate respirator is required, along with eye protection. Heed every warning and caution notice on the label.
Do not apply in wet or high humidity conditions. Applying too heavy, too fast between coats, or in high humidity traps released carbon dioxide under the surface and bubbles the film. In hot or humid weather, thin more than normal.
Do not clear coat over RustSeal on a surface that lives in the sun. DiamondFinish Clear is UV stable itself, but like most clear coats it does not block UV long term, and RustSeal underneath can chalk or fade. Use a UV stable base coat under DiamondFinish Clear on anything consistently exposed to sunlight.
Read the Full Directions and TDS
DiamondFinish Clear is a water-clear, high-gloss, single-component moisture-cured urethane at 62 percent volume solids and 8.8 pounds per gallon. DiamondFinish Clear reaches 7H pencil hardness at seven days, withstands 300 degrees F of dry heat for one hour, and holds 1000 hours of both ASTM B117 salt spray and QUV 313B accelerated weathering.
Composition
Generic Type:1K moisture-cured urethane
Color and Finish:Water clear, 90% to 92% gloss
Volume Solids:62 +/- 2.0%
Weight Solids:66 +/- 2.0%
Weight Per Gallon:8.8 +/- 0.2 lbs
Viscosity:27 to 33s (#2 Zahn)
Application and Cure
Application Temp:50° to 82°F, moderate to dry
DFT Per Coat:2 mils
Total Thickness:4 mils general, 6 mils marine
Recoat Window:2 to 4 hours, within 8 hours
Cut and Buff:After 24 hours
Full Cure:At least 7 days
Performance
Pencil Hardness:7H (7 days)
Impact (D/I):160 inch-pounds
QUV 313B:1000 hours
Salt Spray (B117):1000 hours
Dry Heat:300°F (1 hour)
10% Sodium Hydroxide:Excellent
Clean Up:KBS #1 Thinner, before cure
Shelf Life:2 years unopened, 6 months open
Preserving the Patina Look
How to stop rust from advancing while keeping the raw patina finish on a project.
Read Guide →
Water-Based Paint Compatibility
What to check before applying DiamondFinish Clear over water-based paints and coatings.
Technical Info →
Achieve a Show-Quality Finish
Applying moisture-cured coatings for a mirror finish, and the mistakes that cost one.
Read Expert Tips →
The Lure Maker's Choice
Why professional lure makers use a non-porous 1K clear for a rock-hard waterproof seal.
Learn More →
Candy Pigments & Flake Restoration
Restoring a jet ski by adding candy pigments and flake directly into DiamondFinish Clear.
Watch Project →
Headlight Restoration Guide
Improve light output and safety by repairing yellowed or damaged headlight clear coats.
Read Guide →
DiamondFinish Clear Durability and Flexibility Demonstration
DiamondFinish Clear Lays Out Like Glass
Reviving Oxidized Fiberglass on a Boat, Part 1
Reviving Oxidized Fiberglass on a Boat, Part 2
Have questions before you buy? Find answers to the most common DiamondFinish Clear questions below, or
order DiamondFinish Clear now and get it shipped same day.
The best clear coat for metal is one that bonds direct to the metal without a primer, stays flexible as the metal expands and contracts, and holds up to UV. DiamondFinish Clear is a 1K moisture-cured urethane built for exactly that: it goes direct to bare ferrous and non-ferrous metal with no adhesion promoter, cures to 7H pencil hardness, and holds 1000 hours of both ASTM B117 salt spray and QUV 313B accelerated weathering without yellowing or chalking.
Apply a minimum of three thin covering coats when clear rust protection on bare metal is the goal.
Order DiamondFinish Clear →
No. A direct-to-metal coating is formulated to bond to the metal itself, which is the whole point of the category. DiamondFinish Clear needs no primer and no adhesion additive on bare metal. What it does need is clean metal: polish or sand to the finish you want, then clean with KBS Klean diluted 10 parts hot water to 1 part KBS Klean for ferrous metals, or 25 to 1 for aluminum, brass, and copper.
Never use a solvent wipe or tack cloth to prep. Both leave a residue that causes surface tension in the wet film.
Toughness in a clear coat is measured, not claimed. DiamondFinish Clear tests at 7H pencil hardness after seven days, 160 inch-pounds of direct and indirect impact, 1000 hours of ASTM B117 salt spray, and rated excellent against 10 percent sodium hydroxide. The cured film also resists most common shop chemicals and solvents.
Hardness alone is not the whole story. DiamondFinish Clear stays permanently flexible as it cures, which is why it takes impact without cracking off a substrate that flexes.
Direct-to-metal coatings come in both water-based and solvent-based forms, so the label has to be read rather than assumed. DiamondFinish Clear is neither a water-based acrylic nor a traditional oil-based enamel: it is a solvent-borne, single-component moisture-cured urethane that cross-links by pulling humidity out of the air. Thin and clean up with KBS #1 Thinner or Xylene only.
DiamondFinish Clear is compatible over fully cured water-based acrylics and urethanes, so a water-based base coat and this clear coat work together.
Yes. Wood is an approved substrate for DiamondFinish Clear. The wood must be smooth and dry with a low moisture content, and every failed coating has to come off first. Thin the initial coat 30 to 50 percent with KBS #1 Thinner and apply a single covering coat to seal the wood, then allow 24 hours to cure.
That first coat raises the grain, so sand smooth again with 280 to 320 grit before continuing. Apply at least one more full coat for general work, and a minimum of three coats for marine or industrial use. Expect up to 50 percent less coverage on bare wood than the published figure, since porous wood absorbs the sealing coat.
Apply a minimum of two thin covering coats at 2 mils dry film thickness each, for 4 mils total, on general work. Apply a minimum of three coats for marine applications, industrial use, surfaces consistently exposed to water, and bare metal rust protection. Theoretical coverage is 400 square feet per gallon at 2 mils, so a gallon covers roughly 200 square feet at the two-coat build and a quart covers about 50 square feet.
Figure in material losses during mixing and application, and expect up to 50 percent less coverage on bare wood, rough, or sandblasted surfaces.
Shop All Sizes →
Apply DiamondFinish Clear between 50 and 82 degrees F in moderate to dry atmospheric conditions. Avoid rain and avoid high heat combined with high humidity. Because DiamondFinish Clear cures on moisture in the air, humid conditions accelerate the cure and can trap released carbon dioxide under the surface, which shows up as bubbling.
If the shop is hot or humid, thin more than normal to slow the flash and give the film time to lay out.
DiamondFinish Clear can be cut and polished after 24 hours under normal environmental conditions, using the same technique and products you would use on an automotive clear coat. Recoating happens earlier, within a 2 to 4 hour window once the previous coat is dry to the touch and leaves no fingerprint. Parts can be handled after one day, and a full cure is reached at a minimum of 7 days.
Do not use UV or bake lamps to speed this up. Heat lamps actually slow a moisture cure. In a spray booth, use low air flow and moderate temperatures.
Not on a surface that will be consistently exposed to sunlight. DiamondFinish Clear is itself 100 percent UV stable, but like most clear coats it does not block UV rays long term, and RustSeal underneath can chalk or fade. On anything living in the sun, put DiamondFinish Clear over a UV stable base coat instead.
For a part that stays out of direct sunlight, the combination is fine. If there is any doubt about the application, contact the KBS technical team before you open the can.
Clean up with KBS #1 Thinner immediately, before the coating dries, and flush a spray gun the moment you finish spraying. Once DiamondFinish Clear has cured, no solvent will remove it. Always wear protective gloves: if the coating reaches skin, remove it right away with KBS #1 Thinner or lacquer thinner followed by soap and water, because a cured stain on skin only wears off with time.
For storage between uses, reseal the can with a plastic bag between the lid and the can rim, and use KBS Paint Saver to displace oxygen and moisture.
